INSTALLATION OF UNICLIC PATENTED FLOATING FLOOR SYSTEM
PRODUCT: Strand Woven 14mm thick Bamboo Uniclic MosowoodPatented Flooring System
Strand Woven 14mm thick Bamboo Uniclic Parquet Patented Flooring System
“R” RATED REFLECTIVE THERMAL ACOUSTIC UNDERLAY: “Combi” Foam – incorporating moisture
barrier and 3mm closed cell foam with foil top coat, tested for impact isolation for acoustical performance.
When using reflective underlay, no moisture barrier is required, joins must be fixed securely with moisture
TOOLS/MATERIALS REQUIRED: Drop Saw, Undercut or Angle Grinder with saw blade detached for
doorways, rubber mallet & Stanley knife, Straight edge & Crosslink Adhesive for end joins if required.
It must be noted that it is not recommended that a kitchen should never be fitted on top of either
T & G or floating flooring. There is a lot of weight and with stone or granite benches kitchens are very heavy
and do not allow the natural expansion and contraction of the boards that is required. This applies to
hardwood as well as timber. Install the flooring after the kitchen is fitted.
We do also recommend that you apply a Lock Seal during the installation for around the kitchen sink and bench
to minimize the risk of excessive moisture ingressing. Please ask your distributor to supply for the kitchen
• Ensure the sub-floor is level in compliance with Australian Standards i.e. 3mm undulance over a 3m2
radius, check levels with a straight edge. Ensure the sub-floor is free from dust, plaster, high or low
spots and other raised contaminates. Remove or fill sub-floor as required, remember the floor must be
level, K15 or equivalent product is best for self-level.
• Roll out underlay in direction planks are to be installed with moisture barrier to substrate & reflective
silver top upwards. When joining underlay, overlap the flap on the next piece, tape join securely with
moisture resistant tape.
• Make sure than an even expansion margin minimum (10mm) is consistently left around the perimeter
of all rooms, fixed joinery and in doorways. The smallest margin left will effectively become the total of
expansion available to the floor. It is recommended where possible that the plaster wall lining be
undercut around the perimeter of the floor to allow as much room for expansion as possible. This is
most important when installing in areas that can have periods of high or low humidity.
It is important to install an expansion join to rooms over 6 metres in width to comply with the
Australian standards given that there could potentially be up to 25mm of movement in the floor.
Not everyone wants to have this join in the middle of the room so we recommend that you undercut the
plaster 2mm up from the floor to allow for the extra expansion/contraction of the floor between the
periods of low and high humidity levels.
The extra allowance for expansion will save any later cupping or gaps around the walls.
An expansion join or the above method is essential when a building is a relocatible constructions or
factory pre-built and moved to either a dry or tropical climate different from that which it has been
Give it room to move to minimize potential problems.
• THE FIRST ROW: It is most important to get the first row correct, if possible always start working
from left to right. Place the row of panels with the groove against the wall without gluing, raise the
boards at 30 degree angle, push and lock, listen for the click. Secure the distance to the wall with
spacer wedges. A minimum expansion gap of 10 mm is recommended at all times. 2
• THE LAST PANEL IN A ROW: In general, the last panel of a row has to be shortened to fit. Lay the
panel that should be shortened, with the tongue against the tongue of the previous row. Mark the
length and cut and turn the panel to fit. Allow for a minimum of 10 mm expansion gap at wall.
• CUTTING PANELS: Using sharp tools at all times, (handsaw, drop-saw, power drop saw) carefully
cut panels required.
• PANEL OVERLAP: The piece that is left over should be the first panel of the next row. The minimum
overlap with the next row should always be a minimum of 300 mm
• UNEVEN WALL AND THE FIRST ROW: Any unevenness in the wall you are working from should
either be trimmed from the edge of the board or offset using adjustable spacer wedges so that the
length of the first row of boards is absolutely straight and even. Using a piece of string can check this.
Any boards out of alignment at this stage will cause gaps in subsequent rows. Ensure that you leave a
minimum expansion gap of 10 mm at the wall.
• THE FIRST 3 ROWS: To start, tape down the first 3 rows of panels to the underlay to minimize
moments as you click and join new pieces.
• PULL BAR and WEDGES: A pull bar is used to close board end joints at the end of each row.
Wedges are to be used on all three sides/ends where possible to maintain an even expansion gap of at
least 10 mm around the perimeter of the floor. You may require a small tapping block to be used
against the protruding tongue of the panel to tap the panel into place.
• FITTING THE LAST ROW: Adjust the width of the panels for the last row, whilst ensuring you do
not forget the minimum expansion gap of 10 mm.
• RESTING TIME AFTER LAYING: Remove wedges and packers. Cover the expansion gap with
either skirting or other selected molding by AFFIXING these to the WALL ONLY, affix aluminium
doorway finishing strips to where new flooring & ceramic tiles meet.
You may walk immediately on your new floor. Avoid loading the floor for 12 hours after completion of
• DOORPOSTS, PILLARS, ARCHITRAVES, etc: For the neatest detail at vertical impediments, place
a piece of a panel on a piece of the underlay, flat on the existing floor, and mark the top of this on the
vertical article to be shortened. Remove template and cut below marked line until you are able to
remove excess material. Clean out all debris.
• SERVICE PIPES etc: When installing around pipes etc., cut the panels and loose lay until reaching
pipe etc. Mark the panel where floor intersects with object ensuring you have allowed for the
minimum 10 mm expansion as required. Often, to fit properly, the panel will need to have been cut at
45 degrees to the surface and when installing will need to be glued together around the impediment.
• FINISHING TRIMS: We recommend using a C Section trim for where the flooring meets carpet or
tiles. This trim is available from the flooring section of all good hardware stores who will be able to
advise the method of installing
• CLEANING: Fill a spray bottle with clean warm water with a small cap full of methylated spirits,
spray every end join per row, wipe off any excess crosslink adhesive, keep rinsing the cloth. Upon
completion of the installation half fill a bucket with clean water and add a splash of methylated spirits
with a VERY WELL SQUEEZED OUT FOAM MOP (not a traditional mop), clean the floor. Change
the water & rinse the mop frequently to avoid smears etc.